October 9, 2012

Reasons You're Not Ready to Visit Ecuador

Before people get up in arms about this post, I'm going to follow this up with one about why you should visit Ecuador. I'm just being honest here - visiting a developing nation is very different in some ways from the US, Canada or Europe.

In other ways, Ecuador itself is very westernized. You hear American music, see English-speaking films and can find American clothing and food brands here without much trouble. But regardless of that similarity, visitors need to keep in mind that they are not coming to a country like the US or Canada.

Here are my reasons on why you're not ready to visit Ecuador:

1) Pollution
The buses here can be old and belch black smoke. My way of dealing with it: take a scarf with me to hold against my nose and mouth when going by the busy streets AND avoid the busy streets as much as possible.

2) Chance of getting robbed
This is mostly an issue in the big cities and on buses. But we haven't gotten robbed yet and we've been here more than a year. Knock on wood!

There are some areas of Quito where this is more of a problem and the time of night certainly doesn't help. Also, if you're drunk and/or look like you have money (i.e. walking around with an expensive purse, diamond earrings or a fancy gadget), there's a good chance you'll get robbed whatever time of day.

3) Food poisoning
I've been sick here more often than anywhere in my life. It's not for lack of being careful, but you have to wash all your fruit and veg for 5 minutes in an anti-bacteria wash before eating them raw. And you never know if the place where you're eating has done that or not.

Places where tourists eat aren't as much of a problem, but in the small towns and villages, there isn't always a restaurant just for tourists. So you've gotta be extra careful with your food and making sure it's cooked through and through. I hope I don't have to say this, but street food is a big no-no.

4) High Altitude
This of course is only a problem in the Andes region, but it affects a lot more than people think. Not only does it mean my brownies don't cook well, but you also have to be extra careful about the sun and about exerting yourself too much. It's easy to get winded here.

Other effects of high altitude when you first get here are headaches, waking up at odd hours of the night (for the first few days, I kept waking up at 2 or 3 am even though I was exhausted), racing heart beats, getting winded walking or going up stairs, dehydration and more fun stuff!

5) Poverty
If you can't live with the sight of 4-year-olds on the sidewalk by their parents' kiosk or an 11-year-old helping with road construction (and not in school), you should not visit Ecuador. This is a regular sight and it breaks my heart every single time.

I don't think I'll ever get used to it and I will carry these sights with me for the rest of my life. If there is a good side to this, it's that it makes you really want to make change in the world so that no child has to grow up in this way. And it also makes me think of how much more we have in the US that we take for granted.

6) Bad, Unsafe Driving
I have not yet seen an accident here, but I read in the local newspaper that every day there are 13 deaths and 136 wounded in the country due to traffic accidents (stats taken over the last 4 years). It's not hard to see why. People drive like they're crazy, swerving and veering through traffic. Buses can be old and not maintained well, and the crazy drivers don't help matters.

We take taxis a lot and I have only had a few times where I've climbed into a taxi and found a seat belt AND a seat belt buckle. People just don't use them. I've seen taxi drivers who've used them only if they see the police nearby. Buckling kids in properly (in a car seat) is a rarity. Normally, when I look into other cars, I see mothers holding their babies on their laps in the passenger seat.

7) Little English
People may laugh at this, but I've definitely heard Americans who have come to different countries and been amazed that they don't speak English. Sorry, but duh! It's no different here, except worse because you cannot rely on hardly anyone having English skills except at hotels where they cater to tourists. If you come here, you should prep by learning common Spanish words and phrases beforehand. The good thing is that most people are so nice and try to be as helpful as possible.

8) Noise
I think we already covered this enough with our post about top noisiest nights in Quito. It's a bit quieter and  more tranquil outside of the big city. If you're in Quito, expect noise at night regardless of where you're staying.

9) Unsafe construction
I wish I had a picture to show you of the sidewalks in Quito and how unsafe they are. You really always have to be looking down to make sure you're not going to trip. One friend of ours tripped on a sidewalk and fell, breaking her front tooth. Another colleague of Greg's tripped and sprained her ankle while simply walking on the sidewalk. The sidewalks here take no prisoners!

Construction sites tend to lack the safety requirements that are normal in the US. Sometimes you'll see a site that requires hard hats for their workers. Other times, there's no hard hats for workers and safety goes out the window. If a sidewalk is closed for construction, often times people have to walk on the side of the road because there's no other way to get around it.

10) Potential for Natural Disasters
This could be a good thing or a bad thing depending on how you look at it. If you've never seen a volcanic eruption before, you have a good chance to see one if you go down to Banos in Ecuador. Same goes for landslides and floods. We've often seen the aftermath of a landslide on the highways on our trips, but have not been in a natural disaster ourselves.

11) Horrible Bathrooms
I've braved many horrible bathroom situations in the past (the best one was the squatting toilet in a cafe in Turkey), but nothing compares to the amount of horrible bathrooms I've found in Ecuador. The smells, the lack of toilet paper or soap, the filth... agh, that is one memory I hope I leave behind in Ecuador.

12) Yucky Beer
Greg has been making due with the horrible beer here, but the first thing he wanted to do this summer was get a great beer when we were back home. At least the wine is pretty good from South American countries.

I hope this list doesn't dissuade people from visiting, but rather, makes people understand that visiting a developing country isn't all fiestas and happiness. There's some bad parts to it, too. You'll love all the good things that you can see here though - just wait for our next post about it soon!

October 2, 2012

Weekend in a CRATER

The blog posts are slow in coming, I know - we actually took this trip for Greg's birthday weekend September 23rd. We went to this beautiful, huge crater called Pululahua (try saying that three times fast - impossible).
See how dry this part of the valley is?
This is how it normally looks. (picture from here)
When we went, it hadn't rained in ages and much of it was really dry on the walk down. Because yes, we walked the cliff down to the crater bottom (and we walked back up on Sunday, too). The walk was steep and slippery with loose rocks, but we managed not to fall off or disgrace ourselves too much. The valley was so quiet and peaceful when we got all the way down.

Cute little donkey we met on the way down -
he didn't want much to do with us. :-/

After we ate lunch, we went for a longer walk around the base of the mountain in the crater. On the other side of the mountain, everything changed. It was lush and overgrown with plants - the farms were thriving and colorful. It was really beautiful. Midway through our hike, the fog rolled in and we were lucky to have a trail to follow otherwise we would've gotten quite lost.

I made friends with a donkey - he was in it for food, I think.
Too bad for him we had no donkey food on us.
Cows chillin' in the fog
The hike in the fog was very ethereal and dream-like. When we came out on the side our hostal was on, we saw farmers in the fields, chickens running around and cattle grazing, but only when the fog rolled away to reveal them. It was one of the coolest hikes I've been on in a while.

The fog is just about engulfing the land.
That night, we celebrated Greg's birthday with some yummy organic food and a dip in the hostal's jacuzzi. The next morning we ate breakfast, bought some of their naturally grown coffee and made our way up the side of the mountain back up to society.

The whole trip back to Quito probably took us 2.5 hours door to door. This actually is a short trip given that it can take us 1.5 hours to get to the southern bus terminal, which is IN Quito. We have a love/hate relationship with the traffic here.

September 18, 2012

Top 6 Questions About Quito

We got a lot of questions this summer about where we currently live. Here are the top six questions (and our answers) lots of people asked us:

1. Is it super hot?
No, Quito is in the mountains so it stays spring-like all year. The temps range from 60 to 75 degrees F. There's a rainy season and a dry season, which is what we've got right now, but that's about the biggest change all year.

Oh, and the sun sets every night at 6:30-7 pm and is up at 6:30-7 am every morning. That makes for a very weird time when you see people posting on Facebook about snow, winter, and the holidays.

2. What kind of money do they use down there?
They actually use US dollars down here. The one difference is that dollar coins are HUGE here. We use all the dollar coins down here that no one wants to touch back in the US. They're a lot more durable than paper money.

And speaking of paper money, it's difficult to get change for $20 bills here, yet that's all that you get out of the ATM. If you want to buy something at a smaller store or take a taxi, but only have $20, sorry bud - you better go split that first.

Also, you can't use credit cards for everything down here like you can in the US. We just use our credit card at big restaurants and grocery chains.

3. Are the roads paved?
Yes. The sidewalks are in worse condition than the roads. You really have to watch where you put your feet here or you could end up with a sprained ankle or in a hole somewhere.

4. Do people speak English?
Uh, no. They speak Spanish and you'll be hard-pressed to find anyone who speaks English here.

5. Do they celebrate Fourth of July/Thanksgiving/Memorial day, etc.?
No, those are US holidays. However, there's a good chance that fireworks will be shot off during those holidays because they shoot off fireworks about 3 times a week here on average. They love themselves some fireworks!

6. How do you like it down there? 
To keep it uncomplicated, we say "yeah, it's nice" when we get asked about Quito. Quito is complicated - there's a lot of pluses and a lot of minuses to this city. We try to be realistic about it when we talk to people so they don't think it's some heavenly paradise or some hell hole in South America. It just is what it is - Quito doesn't fit neatly into either of those categories.

September 6, 2012

Howdy from Texas!

We're not really in Texas right now - I'm sitting here back in Quito. Over lunch today, we were talking about what blog posts we wanted to write about our US trip this summer and I decided to write about what a culture shock it is to go to Texas.

First, the people. How nice are they?! So nice. After 5 days in New York City, Dallas was a breath of fresh,  Southern air. Not only were my sister-in-law's friends super helpful and sweet, but that sweetness was infectious.

"What can I get you today darlin'?" "Honey, isn't it a hot one out there?"

I felt if we stayed another two weeks, I would have developed a pretty realistic Southern drawl.

We were the part of the daycare, cleaning service and chefs for the two weeks we were there, and it was a blast. Greg and Priscilla would manage the kids in the morning while I worked. They had fun times at the library and the splash park (Greg may have enjoyed that more than the kids).

In the afternoons, we'd take them to the pool, play games, throw basketballs with our nephew Jake, make up songs, play with toys, take our niece Abby to her soccer practice, and more. We even got out for a night of fireworks while we were there! 

It was a gift to have the time to spend with our niece and nephew while they're growing up. Pretty soon, they'll be learning how to drive and going off to college.

Jake and Priscilla

This soccer game took place at their church's gym so yes, prayer was involved.

Abby and Jake loving the wading pool in the backyard.

August 26, 2012

Intrepid is Impressive

Hey readers,

We have been gone for a while. Away from home and the blog. But after a long vacation to see family in the United States, we are back and full of stories. Aside from seeing family, I (Greg) was most excited to visit New York City. As I have told many people, I had visited NYC once as a kid 20 years ago. I came from a small town in central Wisconsin were the tallest building was about 5 stories high. On that trip, we arrived to Grand Central Station on the Amtrak. The instant my family walked out of the station I was overwhelmed by the tall buildings, a mugging of a handicapped person right in front of me, police on horses, and what seemed like my parents disappeared in all of this big city chaos.


That city of chaos image was in the back of my head as we flew in to NYC, however, we have lived in enough big cities now for 10 years so that I had a good feeling the city would feel very normal to me. In fact, Ayelet and I had to do one of our new travel approaches of divide and conquer since we admit to having a variety of interests to satisfy. That allowed me to really take in the city that scared me as a child and experience it from a whole different perspective.

My main stop was to go to the Intrepid Museum and see the new display of the Enterprise Space Shuttle.


Like everything in NYC, this display was impressive and over the top. The Intrepid Museum is one of a kind. It is a museum dedicated to aircraft and is housed on and in a retired Navy aircraft carrier.


Not only does this museum showcase a wide range of flying things, but you can get great city views from this angular piece of floating crafted metal.


August 2, 2012

Yoga Retreat in Mindo

I've been lucky to get in with a group of yogis at the local international school called Academia Cotopaxi. They meet every Thursday after school and it's only a 30 minute walk from our apartment.

When one of the ladies suggested a yoga retreat in Mindo at the end of the year, I was all for it. You may remember Mindo was one of our first trips last year and it was great to be back.

The yoga instructor is a teacher from Alaska and she taught 2 2-hour classes during the weekend. The rest of the time we hiked, read, played games, and basically chilled out. Quito can be hectic, noisy and crowded so getting to this eco lodge (El Monte) was wonderful. I'm looking forward to next year's retreat already!

Cool wood table and stump chairs with native fabric padding.

 Yes, that is a tree growing out of the floor.

We took over this space for our yoga classes and we just barely fit!
Breakfast, lunch and dinner was included - and it was delicious!
This little guy fell in love with my shoes on the last day.
Sorry bud - Scoots would eat you if you came home with me!

July 25, 2012

Quito's Beautiful Botanical Gardens

Wow, has it been a long time since we posted or what?! Anyway, I'm here now and have a little time to write and schedule some posts to go out while when we're in the US on vacation.


There was a long weekend in May in which we didn't go out of town so we got to see parts of Quito that we hadn't visited yet. One was the Botanical Gardens with friends of ours.

It was one of those places that I hope we can get back to next year because it really is a beautiful, peaceful place. They have an amazing collection of orchids and exotic flowers so we had a very good time. Here are some pics that Greg and I took (lots of our favorite, macro photos!):